Preparation of garden tools for winter storage
Garden tools and tools are indispensable in any area where work is carried out with soil or where trees or shrubs grow. With our own hands we can only collect fruits or single pests, and we do the rest with the help of a garden tool. Now, when a good shovel and high-quality rake are quite expensive, more and more gardeners prefer with the advent of cold weather, when work in the garden and in the garden is finished, take care not only of the plants, but also of garden equipment, so that it lasts as long as possible.
For some, all the care of gardening equipment, of absolutely any type, from a simple shovel to a complex pruner or lawn mower, comes down to putting it in a garage or barn in the form in which it is currently located on the site. At such negligent owners, even expensive shovels, rakes, hoes begin to rust quickly, their wooden elements crack open, the sharp knots of secateurs and drank dull, and all the elements of irrigation begin to flow where it is not necessary and crack.
So, in order for the garden tool to last as long as possible, so that it is convenient to work with it for a number of seasons, it must be prepared accordingly for long-term storage, which, even in the center of Russia, where it is relatively warm, can last from the beginning or mid-November to early April, that is, almost half a year.
Preparation for winter storage of metal garden tools
So, before you forget about the existence of garden tools such as a shovel, spade, rake, hoe, hoe and ax for six months, you must always remove soil and plant debris from their surface, then rinse thoroughly, completing the cleaning process with a metal brush, and then dry well and grease with regular machine oil, at the end wrapping all metal parts with oiled paper.
As for the handles of the above tools, all that threatens them is a strong drain. Dry handles may not hold metal parts or simply break at the most crucial moment. First, inspect one or another inventory: if the metal part is loose, then it can be fixed with additional nails, drive chopped wood from pieces of wood or stuff cuttings and handles deeper.
Important! There should not be any backlash, if the metal part of the shovel, pitchfork, hoe or, which is very dangerous, an ax hangs, then such problems must be eliminated. Not only will you delve longer in the garden and work will be less efficient, so you can still get corns on your hands, and when chopping branches, the dangling part of the ax can come off, which can lead to sad consequences.
In some cases, from frequent use or if the tool is already quite a few years old, the handle at the very base of the metal part can easily become rotten, then two things can be done - either replace the entire handle or make it shorter.
Important! It’s better not to make the handle of the ax shorter, it should be of such a length that you can comfortably hold on to it when chopping.
The arms of other tools - hoes, shovels, rakes are often referred to as cuttings, and so, the handle, after placing a shovel or hoe in a metal socket and fastening it with a nail (self-tapping screw) with a large hat, after installing the shovel or chopper on the ground, should reach the worker in height . If the assembled tool will have a handle exceeding the described length, then working with such a tool will be inconvenient, exactly the same as vice versa, it will be even more difficult to work with short cuttings on shovels and choppers.
An unpleasant problem that needs to be solved with the handle of an ax or the handle of a chopper, shovel and other things is the appearance of burrs on them. Burrs can arise from careless handling of tools, that is, if you drop them, throw them, fold them apart - metal parts up and down. In this case, further burrs when working with such an instrument can lead to the appearance of painful corns on the hands.
The best way to get rid of burrs on a garden tool is to clean it with sandpaper. At first, you can use coarse sandpaper to quickly remove the burr, and then smaller (delicate) to smooth out even small roughnesses.
The following is the processing of handles and cuttings. To do this, they must be treated with a composition consisting of a mixture of varnish gasoline and linseed oil in equal quantities. After this treatment, the service life of the handle or handle can increase at least twice.
The tool should be stored in a dry place where moisture does not get. A barn or garage is also quite suitable, like a garden house, and in extreme cases, you can use the balcony. Note that, ideally, the tool should be in a horizontal position, lying on specially designated shelves or in a suspended state. So that the metal parts are not far from the ground (3-4 cm), so that when they fall, they can not cause harm to humans.
Cutting tool storage
The cutting tools used in the garden - garden shears, a garden knife, pruning shears and garden saws - also need to be taken care of before laying them for the winter. To begin with, all the cutting parts of the tools must be cleaned of dirt, parts of wood and vegetable juice that has accumulated on them. All these substances not only spoil the appearance of the instrument, but also can quickly render it unusable (in just one winter of improper storage).
Plaque of the juice of various plants and everything else from any cutting tool can be extremely easily removed with steel fiber, generously dipped in ethyl alcohol. After such cleaning, you can proceed to check the sharpness of the cutting tool, and if it is dull, it is imperative to sharpen it.
Important! Sharpening of the cutting tool is best entrusted to professionals. Such a service costs several hundred rubles, but the master will do everything correctly, you will definitely not get hurt when sharpening and the tool will serve faithfully the whole next season, until a new sharpening. In the workshop, the cutting parts are not only cleaned, but also checked for defects that you may not notice - chips, dents, cracks, etc.
After you sharpen yourself or get your tools from the master, all the cutting parts will need to be greased with machine oil and / or wrapped in oiled paper. The cutting tool should ideally be in a suspended state and not touch other surfaces, especially metal ones.
Lawn Mower Storage
Happy owners of lawn mowers sometimes do not even know that cleaning this complex tool, which can also be attributed to a series of garden tools, is necessary after each mowing of the lawn. It happens that lawn mowers are designed so that this does not need to be done, but absolutely any model of a lawn mower needs to be prepared for winter.
First of all, it must be disconnected from the network, drain all gasoline, unscrew and dry the spark plugs. Before working with the lawnmower, it must be protected as much as possible so that the cutting parts cannot be worn during the cleaning process and injure you. Further, the lawn mower must be completely cleaned of grass, even from small blades of grass, which can dry or rot inside and in some cases even lead to the failure of individual elements of the lawn mower.
To clean the entire lawn mower, it is not enough just to turn it over and clean all the visible parts, it is advisable to remove the case, which is held on a few bolts and can be removed sometimes very easily. The most convenient way to remove grass from a lawn mower is not with your hand, but with an elastic brush, not iron, but rather plastic.
It is advisable to wipe all the cutting parts of the mower with alcohol, after which, allowing it to evaporate, grease with machine oil and wrap, if possible, with oiled paper.
As for the knives of the lawn mower, you can also turn to professionals for help, having carefully removed them first, and after sharpening by the master, being very careful, also carefully attached them back.
The final work with the lawn mower is the replacement of all available air filters and oil in the engine, as well as checking the electric cable (if the lawn mower is powered by electricity) for integrity: if the wire is exposed, either replace it (which is better and safer, but more expensive), or insulate it with an insulating tape (which is less safe, but cheaper).
Carts and cars
To facilitate our work throughout the spring-summer-autumn season, cars and carts should also not be ignored. First, wheelbarrows and carts need to dismantle the wheels, if they are inflatable, and stack them horizontally on top of each other. The bodies of wheelbarrows and carts will then need to be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and other debris accumulated in them, washed, dried, greased with a layer of machine oil.
You need to pay attention to all the moving parts of wheelbarrows and bogies, if there are rolling bearings, then if they are scattered, replace with new ones, and if everything is okay with them, generously lubricate with grease. When storing wheelbarrows and carts on the street, which is not so rare, they must always be turned upside down: this way water will not accumulate in the bodies and they will not rust.
All irrigation devices can kill frost even by 2-3 degrees, therefore, before the onset of frost all irrigation equipment must be dismantled without fail. The irrigation system must be freed from water by purging, it is better to do this with a pump (as efficiently as possible).
Further, in order to avoid defrosting, all watering taps should be opened immediately after the supply of water from the room to them is stopped. After opening the taps, it is advisable to wrap them with ordinary cling film to prevent dirt and snow from entering them and secure it (with an elastic band for money, tape or tape).
If possible, the irrigation system can be washed with special compounds, eliminating the accumulated dirt or limescale during the season.
We pass to hoses. Hibernating them under the snow is the worst thing that could have been thought up regarding, it would seem, such a primitive part of the irrigation system. It is better to twist the hoses into coils and fasten them with cable ties. In the process of twisting, excess water will come out of the hose itself. Then they should be brought into any room and laid horizontally on a flat surface (do not hang up, hoses can be very deformed).
In conclusion, look around your site, what else remains? Usually this is one or a pair of watering cans, several buckets or barrels. It is unlikely that they will have enough space in the barn or garage. Of course, if the room is large, then buckets, watering cans, and a barrel can be placed there, after washing, having cleaned from dirt, and dried on a fine day.
And if there is no place, then it is enough to simply turn them over and leave them on the street so that neither snow nor rain gets into a barrel or bucket and thaw them during the spring temperature difference.
You should not save all those metal tools that for some reason became worthless: over time, all this will turn into a huge amount of trash that you will drag from place to place and never use anything else. All this is better to turn in for scrap, helping out at least some money, or just throwing it away.
That's the whole preparation of a garden tool for winter.